Octopus & pork belly

Open for just over a week, Azur seems to be getting off to a mediocre start.  Who hasn’t been looking forward to the opening of Frederik de Pue’s second DC restaurant (Table, being his first) in the former Cafe Atlantico/Minibar space?  (Read my write-up on the Daily Meal here for more background.)

Azur has many ingredients for success.  Among other things, there’s the chef’s experience at acclaimed seafood restaurants abroad; the seafood-centric menu, which includes a raw bar replete with a variety of East and West Coast oysters, house cured salmon, and caviar; and the lack of seafood restaurants in DC.  So far the reality has not lived up to its potential.  In the words of a young girl in an often-played ad about a cellular provider, “We want more, we want more.”  Overall, the food was fine, the portions were too small, and the price tag was too hefty.

Tuna Tartare

I began my evening at Azur with confusion. The nautical-themed cocktail menu took up about twice as much space as the food menu and included cocktails, named after famous boats, with one too many ingredients, and ranging from $14 to $22.  Side note: Maybe it’s just me but I don’t need to pay $22 for a cocktail merely for the honor of ingesting gold flakes.  I finally settled on the Pilar, a rum-based drink with Crème de Noyeaux, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, fresh grapefruit juice, simple syrup, and mint.  I thought this was a good bet since I recognized all ingredients except one. What I got was something akin to maraschino cherry juice.  I have to give all the credit to my friend for being able to pinpoint the sickening sweet flavor of the Pilar.

I was so turned off by its sweetness that I sent it back.  I.Sent.Booze.Back.  Unheard of!  Instead I went with the Mary Celeste (vodka, ginger syrup, lime, and club soda) which was fine but by no means notable.  On to the food …

Mussels “Belgian”

First course. I started off with the grilled octopus and braised, crispy pork belly ($15).  The pork belly was excellent.  The octopus was tender but bland.  My friend opted for the tuna tartare ($15) which she said was bland and cut so fine that it diluted the tuna’s flavor.

Second course. I ordered the mussels “Belgian” style ($19), meaning the mussels were cooked in Belgian ale with buttered leeks and parsley.

Clams “Azur”

My friend ordered the clams “Azur” style ($22), meaning the clams were cooked in white wine with fennel, garlic, and citrus.  Clams, mussels, and lobster may also be prepared “Bangkok” (coconut broth, lemongrass, and Thai basil) or “Veracruz” (chorizo, cilantro, pasilla chili broth) style.  Each of our dishes came with excellent frites.  While my mussels were delicious, I would have liked a larger portion.  My friend said her clams were good though the fennel overpowered the clams’ delicate flavor.

Dessert.  We both couldn’t resist the Hazelnut Dacquoise ($8) or, as I like to call it, a Nutella candy bar.  It was delicious. Enough said.

Hazelnut dacquoise

So, like I said, the food was fine, the portions were too small, and the price tag was too hefty.  The service was great though I think someone should think twice about having an employee walk out into the middle of the dining room with a broom and dustpan to carry out some routine sweeping in the middle of dinner service.

I’m always optimistic and I hope that my experience at Azur was unique and not indicative of the quality of food that we should expect to see in the future.  And in the meantime, I’m going to become a regular at their happy hour ($1 oysters and drink specials 5-6:30 weekdays).

Azur

405 8th St. NW

Ph: 202.347.7491

Hours: T-W 5pm-12am

       Th-Sa 5pm-2am

       Su 5pm-12am

       M closed

Pork belly and clams

Much like chef Frederik de Pue, Table’s dishes are low-key and high quality.  I recently visited the Shaw-area restaurant for a friend’s birthday dinner. The dishes we sampled were delicate in flavor and seemingly simple in preparation, yet there was no mistaking Chef de Pue’s skillful execution in each bite.  Part of me really yearned for some bolder flavors. Perhaps I was just expecting the dishes to be more in line with de Pue’s classical French training.

I expected the escargot to be prepared the French way — loads of butter, garlic, and parsley to mask the snails’ natural earthiness. De Pue’s version is lemony and light.  Other favorites include the cauliflower soup and clams and pork belly. Above all, the dorade en papillote was the most impressive. Lady Red, a friend of Forking DC, ordered it and I was most thankful. The dorade was delicious, tender, generous in portion, and prepared with Asian-style flavors. If you fear food with a face, I suggest either draping a napkin gently over the dorade’s head (may it rest in peace) or asking a friend or loved one to detach the head while you look away and think of a happier place.  Either way, don’t forget to pop the fish cheek from its resting place. Everyone should enjoy this most delicate part of the fish.

Dorade en papillote

The group had nothing but positive things to say about the desserts — hot ricotta fritters, apple crostata, and pear tart. What looks like chocolate soufflé is in fact decadent hot chocolate mousse.

The service was acceptable but needs improvement. Our waiter appeared to be a newcomer to the profession — resembling a deer in headlights for most of the evening. Moreover, the surly attitude from the front of the house staff disrupted the restaurant’s otherwise casual, friendly vibe.

Chocolate mousse

Lastly, Table may be suffering through some time management issues as a result of instituting their new policy of taking reservations thanks to Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema’s one complaint about his recent visit.

In conclusion, Forking DC is prepared to give Table another shot only for the purpose of trying a few more dishes before making a final assessment.

TABLE

903 N Street NW

Ph: 202-588-5200

Hours: TUE-WED 5-11pm

       THU-SAT 5-12 midnight

       SUN 5-10

Find out the details in my article on The Daily Meal here.

If you’re not celebrating a birthday this month, drown your sorrows with the restaurant’s Lickity Split lunch, details here.  It’s a Forking DC pick!

Courtesy Döner Bistro

Amsterdam Falafel better watch out. Döner Bistro is only a few blocks away and, like Amsterdam, its food tastes good to both the inebriated and sober alike. Plus, Döner has beer and wine!

On its website, Döner Bistro explains what it’s all about:

But what the f*** is a Döner?
The Döner Kebab (meaning “turning meat”) is a traditional Turkish dish served with rice on a platter.

In the 1970’s, a Turkish entrepreneur in Germany altered this dish by stuffing the Döner meat into a flatbread with salad and sauce.

This form better suited the German taste and hectic lifestyle, and its popularity quickly spread from Germany throughout Europe into Australia, Canada and across the world.

I’ll skip my commentary on the eatery’s claim that the döner is a Turkish invention or that it’s different than the Greek gyro. I enjoyed and recommend it in spite of all that. The bread is more substantial than pita and it’s toasted in a panini press, which adds value in two ways. It provides great texture (crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside) and it fortifies the bread to withstand the mounds of filling. The filling is sliced beef or chicken, lettuce, sweet ’n sour coleslaw, tomato-cucumber mix, onions, and garlic-yogurt sauce with fresh cucumbers (a/k/a tzatziki). I opted for an additional topping – feta cheese. I was in heaven. I needed a fork, yes. And, yes, I needed many napkins and did not look very dainty eating it. But it was awesome. It was so awesome and I was so hungry that I forgot to take a picture of it before I dove in.

There are lots of other options on the menu that made both my arteries cringe and my stomach rumble with delight. The döner box is a large paper cup filled with fries, döner meat, and topped with tzatziki. The schnitzel sandwich is what you’d expect – a sandwich with fried veal cutlet. Currywurst is beef or pork sausage, cut up, and smothered in curry-ketchup. You can add either fries or bread to make it a balanced meal. There’s also German bratwurst served with … you guessed it … fries or bread. There’s also ruffage for those that got lost on the way to Sweetgreens — a salad that one can top with feta, falafel, and/or döner meat.  I’ll add that while the menu isn’t low calorie, all the ingredients tasted fresh.

Döner Bistro
 1654 Columbia Rd.
 Washington, DC
 (other location in Leesburg)
Hours: Mon. – Thur: 11am – 11pm
       Fri. & Sat.: 11am – 3am
       Sun.: 11am – 11pm
Ph: 202 462 8355
Email: info@doenerbistro.com

Daikaya offers four types of ramen: shio [salt ramen], shoyu [soy sauce ramen], mugi miso [barley-miso], and vegetable shio [salt ramen with vegetable stock].

But for the vegetable shio, the rest come with a pork, beef, and chicken stock, ground and roast pork, bean sprouts, nori, and scallions. The shoyu ramen has one additional ingredient — half of a soy-marinated egg. The vegetable shio comes with cabbage, bean sprouts, carrots, onions, and wood ear mushroom.

The chef considers each bowl of ramen to be a complete dish but additional toppings, such as canned corn (not really from a can), pork belly, bamboo, and butter, are available. Diners can also add extra noodles, a soy-marinated egg, roast pork or nori to their ramen. Side dishes include pan-fried pork and cabbage gyoza, pork fried rice, and steamed rice.

I tried the shoyu ramen which I thought was fantastic. The broth was peppery with a lot of depth; the noodles were chewy; and I especially loved the subtle depth and creaminess that the marinated egg brought to the dish.  My only disappointment was that I expected and hoped to see the menu offer more adventurous options or add-ons.

In spite of the blustery night, it was, not only the ramen, but also the jar of sake I received that kept me warm. At Daikaya, there’s one type of sake and it comes in its original packaging — a jar that also serves as glassware. The generous serving of sake is solid. Sapporo and non-alcoholic drinks are also available.

The small dining room is all business — quick and efficient service, mostly bar-like seating arrangements, and a few tables. The hostess is very friendly and willing to call or text diners when tables are available, especially when the wait is lengthy. The menu is simple and a little disorienting. [Different categories on the menu are distinguished by their varying orientation so that at least one part of the menu is always upside down no matter which way you turn it.]

The first floor is intended to be reminiscent of Japanese ramen shops, where slurping noodles, as opposed to socializing, is the priority.  The izakaya part of the restaurant, which will be housed on the second floor, is scheduled to open in about a month. It will serve as a bar and restaurant with a more social and vibrant atmosphere than its downstairs counterpart.

Daikaya
 705 6th St. NW (next to Graffiato)
 Tel: (202) 589-1600
 Hours: Mon - Thu: 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm
        Fri - Sat: 5:00 pm - 12:00 am
        Sun: 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm

(Hopes to start serving lunch in a few weeks)

I was feeling happy-go-lucky one Saturday morning until I got the bill at DGS. I ordered the pastrami, which takes over a week to make and is massaged by hand for three hours a day (ok that last part may be a lie). $13.

I couldn’t pass up the matzo ball soup. $7.

As I was waiting for my to-go order, I overheard the bartender pushing the DGS Bloody Mary on another patron, so my upbeat self said “hey can I have one too?” $10.

Plus tax and tip. $40. Yes, I was generous on the tip and no it wasn’t well deserved. More on that later.

I know these prices don’t seem patently unreasonable. Yet, on closer inspection, the food and the experience weren’t worth the price tag. The sandwich was good, but not that impressive. Plus, whoever layered the strips onto the bread, lined up all the fat on one end. So for half of my sandwich, I was biting into pure gristle. The matzo ball soup was awesome but small. The Bloody Mary was mediocre, in a small glass with ice and celery taking up most of the real estate, AND they don’t do spicy, according to the bartender. What self-respecting Bloody Mary provider does not do spicy. Oh, wait, here’s some house made hot sauce and cracked pepper to spice up your drink. Thanks….

As for the service, the bartender was not good at multi-tasking. I sat at a nearly empty bar for a few minutes before any eye contact or verbal acknowledgment because the bartender was having what can only be called as involved small talk with the only other two patrons at the bar.

The best part of the experience was the lady that walked up to the bar a few minutes after I sat down. She was trying to place a to-go order for her son or husband or some other beloved man in her life. She ordered the pastrami and had a very drawn out conversation with the bartender about what toppings she could get:

Can I get mayo? (No)
He likes his sandwiches smothered in cheese, can we add cheese? (No)
Can I swap out the mustard for cole slaw? (Um, we can hold the mustard and add a side of cole slaw that your prince can physically place on top of the meat with his delicate hands).
Ok, can I add lettuce and tomato? (That’s not really an option, ma’am).
Wait, this sandwich is $13??? It better be really good. I’m used to paying $5 for a sandwich. (Yes, it’s really good. Trust me).

Well, said, lady. By the way, where’s the nearest Subway? Pot Belly? I could go for a six inch, smothered in cheese and topped with lettuce and tomato.

All kidding aside, I’m willing to pay considerably more than $5 for a good sandwich as long as I feel I’ve gotten my money’s worth. I’m not sure DGS has convinced me of that yet, but I may give them another shot.

DGS Delicatessen
1317 Connecticut Ave NW
Ph: 202.293.4400
Hours: Mon-Fri: 11:30am-2pm, Sat-Sun: 11am-2:30pm
Sun-Thurs: 5:30 – 10pm
Fri-Sat: 5:30-11pm

Taan Noodles is the creation of Executive Chef Jonathan Bisagni, whose resume includes stints at Kushi, Morimoto Waikiki, Sticky Rice, and Toki Underground.

The menu is simple. A small selection of appetizers/small plates and four types of ramen. There’s a vegetarian ramen, a duck ramen, a pork belly ramen with three types of broth, and what I like to call the meat-lover’s option — chicken confit, duck confit, and pork belly.

In addition to the food, Taan has an interesting selection of specialty cocktails, saki, and beer. I tried the Dr. Sun cocktail made with Japanese whiskey, simple syrup and bitters. I was pleasantly surprised at how the right proportion of each of these ingredients transformed the whiskey into an almost different spirit altogether.

I thought the corn fritters (sweet corn “kakiage”), served over a spicy yuzu and shiso sauce, were solid as was the duck ramen. While I would have liked a little bit more “pow” from the duck ramen, I’m not holding it against anyone since they haven’t even officially opened yet. What I do know is that Taan is an exciting new addition to the neighborhood and I look forward to trying more dishes and seeing where this noodle takes me.

Taan Noodles
1817 Columbia Rd. NW
Tel: (202) 450-2416
Hours: Mon. Closed
       Tues/Wed. 5-10pm
       Thurs. 5-11pm
       Fri/Sat. 5-midnight
       Sun. 5-10pm

That said, I can’t say I felt unwelcome at the Drafting Table given my clearly unhipster-like attire and my decision to order wine instead of beer that comes in an overly illustrated can and has an ironic name that I just don’t get. In fact, the vibe at the Drafting Table is casual and unassuming. The menu is eclectic — though eggs make an appearance several times — but not intimidating. Dishes include a falafel platter, egg sandwich, mussels, and fish and chips. I was pleasantly surprised by the Draftsman burger, which brings together ground beef and braised brisket topped with crispy blue cheese, apricot chutney, and bacon-onion jam. It’s really quite delicious. There’s also something called the snickers pie, which is made in house and is just as good as you’re imagining it could be. The falafel platter, however, left much to be desired. The falafel was dry and as bland as the “lemon hummus” which accompanied it.

I’m not quite sure what to think of the Drafting Table yet. I’d like to return and try the kaya toast which involves sweet coconut jam, sunny side-up eggs, and soy broth. I’m not sure what to expect but I’m intrigued.

Drafting Table
1529 14th Street NW 
Tel:202-621-7475

Hours: Mon-Wed: 4-11pm
       Thurs: 4pm-12am
       Fri: 4pm-2am
       Sat: 8 am -2am
       Sun: 8am-12am

El Pulpo is not your traditional Spanish tapas restaurant.  It puts its own spin on traditional Spanish tapas by infusing them with influences from modern American cuisine.  For example, mac and cheese is on the menu.  El Pulpo’s version is made with manchego cheese and topped with crispy fried Serrano ham.  It is one of the best mac and cheese dishes I’ve had.  Other standouts are the roasted bone marrow mixed in with caramelized Vidalia onions and the short rib sofrito.

I have mixed feelings about the brussels sprouts.  They come with those crispy brown edges I love, but the bacon vinaigrette, which is quite tasty, is relegated to the bottom of the bowl and doesn’t get a chance to sufficiently permeate the leafy sprouts.  I also have mixed feelings about the chorizo paella.  El Pulpo’s paella is very good but lacks the crunchy rice — scraped from the bottom of the paella pan — that is the hallmark of traditional paella.

Short rib sofrito (covered by onion rings!)

The whole prawns, cocoa crusted strip loin, and foie gras and roasted vegetables dishes are solid but overall non-events.  The roasted beet salad has a harshness to it from the raw beets that I don’t particularly like.

The baby octopus with pork belly confit falls short in my opinion.  It is fried, a fact that is not alone offensive but should be noted on the menu.  The pork belly confit is almost indiscernible in a sea of polenta.  I’m not sure how that even happens.  To top it all off, the dish was bland.

On the upside, El Pulpo’s staff is very friendly and the restaurant has a relaxed vibe that I really enjoy.  Even better, our waiter told us the restaurant has begun serving brunch.  All you can eat and bottomless adult beverages for something like $25.  Hello! I think I know where I’ll be November 11 (day before Veterans’ Day holiday).

El Pulpo
3407 Connecticut Avenue NW
Washington DC 20008
Phone: 202.450.6875
Hours: Monday-Thursday: 5pm-10:30pm
       Friday and Saturday: 5pm-11:30pm
       Sunday: 11am-2:30pm (brunch), 5pm-10:30pm

Tacos.  They’re everywhere.  Restaurants, food trucks, food trucks-gone-brick-and-mortar-legit, and pop-ups.

Bandolero used to have some of my favorite “upscale” tacos (suckling pig and Mahi Mahi) but my most recent visit left me disappointed and unlikely to return.  So, I’ve been searching for some new favorites.

Most recently, I checked out the debut of Taco Bamba, Victor Albisu’s pop-up at Blackjack (check out the website here). Taco Bamba will be taking over Blackjack (1612 14th St. NW) every Monday night until mid-December and will be serving a-la-carte tacos to walk-in diners from 6 to 11pm.  It’s cancelled tonight so don’t get too excited (thank you, Sandy).

As usual, Chef Albisu did not disappoint.  The launch party showcased canape-sized versions of Albisu’s tacos, including the duck tacos and the pork tongue tacos, which were my favorites.  I also liked the “taco bamba” (skirt steak, chorizo, and topped with a mini chicharron) and grilled corn with chiles and lime.  I’ll admit I didn’t get to try all the items on the preview menu as the event was clearly oversold. This meant I had to hunt for tacos amongst the hungry throngs of people packed into Blackjack’s rather small space.  My friend Triple X and I managed to snag a front row spot at the bar.  At least we could numb our hunger pangs with samples of Taco Bamba’s cocktails, including the Pineapple Agua Fresca (pineapple, lime juice, simple syrup and tequila, yum!), until we could plan out our taco-snagging system.  Taco Bamba’s permanent location will be in Falls Church.  For those like me who get the shakes when they leave District lines, I suggest you take advantage of Taco Bamba’s DC location as often as you can before the end of the year!

El Chucho in Columbia Heights has a few tasty selections, but I think its real draw is the funky-chill vibe.  The guacamole ($8) was solid but miniscule.  The queso frito was outstanding but I’ve yet to meet a fried cheese I didn’t like.  As for tacos, only the al pastor (pork) and calabacita (veggie) taco were standouts.  The Tripas taco promised more than it could deliver.  Its key ingredients – foie gras and crispy beef – did not mesh well and I found it a bit off-putting to eat in fact. 

Sometimes, I just want a simple, traditional taco.  Corn tortilla, lime, cilantro, spicy salsa or a few jalapeno slices, and pork.  That’s where places like Super Tacos & Bakery in Adams Morgan and Tacos el Chilango in the U Street corridor really hit the spot.  I first tried Tacos “El Chilango” when it was only a food truck operating in Arlington.  My friend, Fancypants, made me go after we lunched at the Green Pig Bistro in Arlington.  I’d already inhaled the Green Pig’s awesome crispy pig tacos — juicy braised pork topped with fried pig ears — and couldn’t even stomach the idea of putting another piece of food in my mouth.  Yet, I yielded to his pleas that I “needed” to try his favorite taco truck in Arlington.  So, I forced down one more taco — El Chilango’s al pastor.  While my gluttonous ways brought me to the verge of revisiting Green Pig’s tacos in a rather unsightly manner, I didn’t regret my decision to try El Chilango’s excellent taco. I haven’t been to their DC location at 11th and V St. NW, but I plan to.

All this taco talk is making me hungry . . . wonder if Super Tacos is open.